Rugby Travel Guides Penzance
Follow the A30 far enough, past the open moorland and the granite tors of Devon, and you’ll eventually find yourself on the western rim of Cornwall, where England thins to salt and stone. This is Penzance, a jumping off point for St Ives, St Michael’s Mount, The Minack Theatre, Mousehole and more, it’s part fishing town, part outpost of Cornish rugby, home to the Cornish Pirates, your new favourite away day.
What’s Penzance like?
A working port with Victorian bones, Penzance is a quirky, bustling harbourside town that’s found its feet in the modern world as centre for art, home to a multitude of galleries, music venues and theatres. But its old charms remain firmly intact, with cobbled alleys weaving from one low-ceilinged, wood-panelled, fire-lit pub to the next – like much of Penzance, they’re not flashy places, but they’re full of character, in a town where history hangs in the air.
What are Penzance’s claims to fame?
Penzance is brimming with stories of old. The largest town in west Cornwall has gone through many chapters; as a market town in the 1300s, as the site of a Spanish invasion in 1595, as a flourishing Georgian trading port, the home of 18th-century smugglers, the commercial centre of Cornwall’s mining industry and as a destination for the 19th-century elite. Its famous sons range from Sir Humphry Davy, the chemist who gave the world the miner’s safety lamp and helped illuminate the Industrial Revolution, to Helen Glover, the two-time Olympic gold medallist rower.
But for rugby folk, it’s the Cornish Pirates who give this town its heartbeat. Born from the 1945 amalgamation of Penzance RFC and Newlyn RFC, the club is rooted in community but driven by ambition, punching above its weight with cup runs, promotions and the odd Premiership scalp.
How do I get to Penzance?
By road it’s the A30 all the way, through Devon, across Bodmin Moor, and finally to the coast. From London, allow five to six hours without stops. Or take the train – the Great Western Railway runs a direct service from Paddington, winding through some of the most scenic track in the country. For the more romantics, leisurely route, there’s the Night Riviera Sleeper. Board in London, wake to sunrise over Mount’s Bay.
How do I get to Mennaye Field?
Cornish Pirates’ ground sits just a short walk from the town centre, tucked behind the promenade and the art deco lines of Jubilee Pool. From the station, it’s a brisk 15-minute stroll west along the seafront, or just a £4 taxi, and if you’re driving there is parking at the west end of the promenade.
What’s the Mennaye Field like?
Unapologetically Cornish, the Mennaye is the home and the heartland of Cornish Pirates. The 4,000-capacity stadium doesn’t need a modern gloss, but instead offers raked terraces, locals in red and black and a stand that has housed thousands in its time. Its intimacy is its greatest feature– you’re close enough to hear the crunch of the first tackle.
Where to drink before a match?
Start at The Lamp & Whistle, tucked up a quiet lane with craft beers and a matchday buzz, and a stop off at the Turks Head on historic Chapel Street is a must. There’s the Admiral Benbow, another old haunt of seadogs and smugglers, the Dolphin, which looks out over the quay, then closer to the ground there’s The Navy Inn, which can get quite lively if the visitors have brought numbers. In short, you’re not short of options in Penzance.
Where to eat before a match?
If you’re down in Penzance the night before and looking for something properly special, then book a table at The Shore, where head chef Bruce Rennie welcomes just 10 diners a night, working alone in the kitchen to presents dishes to all his guests at the same time. With a tasting menu that incorporates international influences ranging from Japanese to French, its powered by the finest seafood from Cornish waters, and is an unmissable dining experience when in town.
On matchday, if you’re craving a belly-filler, Fraser’s Fish & Chips near the harbour is a local institution, either sit in or take away and eat with the sea in your nostrils. But of course, when in Cornwall, you simply must warm yourself with a pasty – Warrens Bakery and Lavenders Deli are both local gems for the local fare.
Where do I stay in Penzance?
For a town this small, Penzance does hospitality well. The Beach Club, perched right on the water’s edge with sea views of Mount’s Bay and recently refurbished, is a popular choice, as is The Queens Hotel, a Victorian landmark with sea-facing rooms and old-school charm, keeping things classic. For something more eclectic, Artist Residence blends boutique comfort with a local feel – there’s art on the walls, cocktails in the bar, and a lived-in charm.
What do I have to see in Penzance?
Jubilee Pool is well worth a visit. A 1930s lido carved into the coastline, it’s a brutalist beauty and a rare survivor. Stroll Chapel Street for antique shops, historic pubs, and perhaps a glimpse of Penzance’s more bohemian past. The Egyptian House is odd, ornate, and entirely wonderful.
If the weather’s kind, walk west to Newlyn and on to Mousehole – a harbour village that seems too pretty to be real.
What can I do in Penzance?
Swim in the Jubilee Pool, the UK’s largest seawater lido, or try the geothermally heated section for a warm dip with a sea view. Wander the subtropical Morrab Gardens, tucked behind the promenade, or if you want to explore the coast, walk or cycle the South West Coast Path towards Mousehole or Marazion. Shop for vintage finds, old books, or Cornish crafts along Chapel Street, book a boat trip to spot dolphins, or catch live music at the Acorn Theatre. And if all else fails, find a bench with a sea view, a good pasty, and let the views do the talking.
Where can I go near Penzance?
Land’s End is just half an hour west, a must-see for the view, while St Ives is 30 minutes north and offers golden beaches, the Tate St Ives gallery, and plenty of places to eat and explore. St Michael’s Mount, just across the bay, is part castle, part legend – walk the causeway at low tide or take the boat across. Drive out to the Minack Theatre, an open-air amphitheatre carved into a cliff face near Porthcurno, with views as dramatic as the performances.
For sea exploration, take your surfboard down to Sennen Cove or Explore the standing stones and ancient sites around Carn Euny or Ballowall Barrow. And for something quieter, visit Zennor – a tiny village with a famous mermaid legend and a pub that serves pints with a view.
